Category Archives: Dessert

October 10, 2012 · 9:03 am

From the ruins

lavender lemon shortbread

Years and years ago, when I first moved back to London for graduate school, I was lucky enough to live in a furnished apartment. Or, almost. The one thing that was missing was a desk *, which seemed essential at the time, given that I was a student.

My roommate—who I had met through a mutual friend but not actually met in person—and her parents knew this and mere minutes after I arrived, whisked me off to Ikea. Or, it felt like that anyway.

I was still bleary eyed from the red eye transatlantic flight and the surreal experience of presenting the customs officer with a notarized acceptance letter and a bank check for thousands of GBP made out to University College London. And, I was in need of everything that didn’t fit within the confines of two suitcases. And, also, very, very tired.

By the time we got to the bays holding the desks, I was dead on my feet. But, it hardly mattered. I knew what a wanted—an understated blonde wood one that would blend in perfectly with the rest of the furniture in my bedroom. I pointed to it, my roommate’s father helped me get it down and then it sat in my flat for two days before I had the energy to open up the box and build it.

When I did, it was bright orange.

Stay with me here. There’s a point, and I’m getting to it.

I was alone in my flat and started to laugh aloud, like a crazy person. This wasn’t what I wanted at all. But, I had no access to a car, and no easy way of getting to Ikea to return the desk without one. I had no choice but to start building. The funny thing was that, as I did, I realized that aesthetically, the orange desk worked and, in fact, made my bedroom look far better than the beech wood version ever could.

The recipe below was meant to be something different.

I had visions of flaky buttery cookies sandwiched between tangy lemon curd. There would be just enough acid to counterbalance the richness and just enough heft to the cookie so that it would be easily stackable. They would be delicious.

And, then the cookies came out of the oven and they too flaky.

I tried to dollop some lemon curd between two and they fell apart. Once I got over the initial disappointment, I realized I was right about at least one thing—they were delicious and tender enough to almost melt away.

All of which is to say, from the ruins: shortbread.

Lavender Lemon Shortbread

1 cup butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla
2 TBS lemon zest
1 tsp dried lavender
1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup corn flour
1/4 cup cornmeal, plus more for dusting
3/4 tsp salt

Cream the butter and powdered sugar. Add in the vanilla, lemon zest, and lavender until it is well blended. Sift the flours and salt together, then add it into the creamed butter/sugar and thirds. The mixture will appear sandy at first. Beat util a soft dough forms, taking care not to over blend.

Roll into logs about 1″ in diameter, coating in cornmeal. Cover in wax paper and refrigerate at least one hour.

When you are ready to cook, heat your oven for 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Slice the shortbread into rounds 1/4″ wide. Place on a parchment lined baking tray and bake 12-14 minutes. The shortbread will be pale. Allow it to sit for at least 10 minutes on the baking tray to crisp.

Photos courtesy of Michael Landry

*Actually that’s not entirely true. For the first two months in the flat, we were also missing dining room table chairs. How we finally got them is another story.

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October 3, 2012 · 2:28 pm

Around the Campfire.

Last week, as I was walking to my office, the air felt crisp. My office itself was colder than usual. I had to put my sweater around my legs to keep warm.

There’s no mistaking it, Fall is upon us, and my long ago Summer Picnic feels long ago. The last hurrah of Summer.

To be quite honest, I wasn’t sorry to see it go.

I was ready to move forward, and into some much needed rest. And, yet, as the end of summer drew nearer I was suddenly and unexpectedly nostalgic.

Labor Day weekend, I found myself reading a book that I probably should have read for the first time twenty years ago, Judy Blume’s Forever.

And, well, this quote:

“It’s funny, the way you get to know summer friends so well in a short period of time, especially at camp, when you are thrown together morning, noon, and night.”

That was all it took. And suddenly, I was remembering the summers of my childhood at camp. Or, more specifically of those end of the summer nights when the upstate air was cold as we sat around the lake, clinging to each other for warmth, getting ready to say goodbye. This was before we were all online at all times, when the head counselors would read sports scores from last night’s major league baseball games at flag pole. When saying goodbye meant staying in touch with letters or simply with the tacit understanding that we would see each other at the same place next year.

I’ve tried to explain the experience and, somehow, always fall short.

How can I not?

The details sound unimpressive—or even strange without the right context. I could tell you about how the entire camp dressed in white on Fridays for the Sabbath or how on the last night of the season, we floated candles on Sylvan Lake, making wishes and plans for the following year. Or, I could tell you about being younger, and looking forward to the night where my division would have a campfire and we’d gather sticks to roast marshmallows for our very own s’mores.

I think I’ll stop there—at least that last one seems to be more universal. And, ultimately, I wasn’t nostalgic for the place so much as the feeling—of being on the cusp of things. Over the summers of my childhood it was the promise of fall and new books and fresh starts in the school year. Now? The days are getting busier and shorter and colder. And, I find myself wanting to hold on the lazy luxury of the summers of my youth in whatever ways I can.

I don’t have access to a camp fire—and, given that I live in an apartment in Manhattan, that’s a good thing. So, this is the indoor version of the summer standby. The good news is that, when the weather gets cold, and I’m feeling wistful and nostalgic, s’mores are no longer so hard to come by—stick not included.

S'mores Bars

S’mores Bars
Recipe courtesy from Seriouseats.com

Making everything from scratch is not a requirement (and, some may say you’re crazy to do so). However, I’ve included links to the recipes for graham crackers and marshmallows, should you be so inclined. It’s worth the effort.

1 cup graham cracker crumbs (made from 10 rectangular crackers)
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
Salt
1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoons baking powder
3 cups Marshmallows

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Cut two 16-inch pieces of foil and line an 8-inch square baking pan, allowing excess to hang over sides. Spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Break graham crackers into small pieces and pulse in food processor until they become fine crumbs. Melt 4 tablespoons butter. Add melted butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt to crumbs and pulse to combine. Press into bottom of prepared pan.

Melt chocolate and remaining 8 tablespoons butter in medium bowl in microwave, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping every 20 seconds to stir with rubber spatula. Transfer mixture to a large bowl and cool, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.
With a wooden spoon, mix in the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, eggs, espresso powder, vanilla, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the flour and baking powder and mix until smooth.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the brownies comes out with moist crumbs attached. Do not over-bake.

Transfer to cooling rack and top with marshmallows.

Adjust oven rack to upper third position and heat broiler. Broil until marshmallows are golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes. Cool in pan 1 hour. Using foil sling, transfer directly to wire rack and let cool completely, at least 1 hour. Cut into 2-inch squares and serve.

Makes 16 2-by-2-inch bars

Photos courtesy of Michael Landry

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August 16, 2012 · 9:44 am

Setting the Bar High

Before we begin, let me get this out of the way. The last time I made marshmallows, I swore I would never do so again.

They’re sticky. And exacting. And, truth be told, unless they’re charred within an inch of life, I don’t really enjoy them that much. Okay, that might be overstating it, but I don’t enjoy them nearly enough to go through all of that effort to make them from scratch when there’s a perfectly good fall back option.

And, yet, here I was doing just that.

Because, I make things complicated.

There, I said it. In black and white print for all of the world to see.

And, now for the rationalization. You knew this was coming, right? This weekend, I’ll be hosting my Summer Picnic. It’s the third year, and I’m setting the bar high. It’s becoming a tradition, albeit one that’s slightly earlier this year, owning to some travel plans. Still.

The first year was all about learning the process. It was small, partially on the theory that if I charred the pork or made a mess of things, then it was easy enough to order pizza for 9 people. I think about these things.

Last year. Well, what is there to say about last year? A gathering of nine became a gathering of almost thirty. There were menu additions. And, eight pounds of pork devoured within the first hour.

Not content to rest on my laurels this year, I’m setting the bar high. Which means, in practical terms that the cooking has started. As has the culling of new recipes. When I saw a recipe for S’mores bars it seemed just thing.

Except that I cannot leave well enough alone. The thought process went something like this, If I’m already making the brownies, why wouldn’t I make the graham crackers, too?

I’m told that rational people don’t have thoughts like this, let alone act on them. Me? I was getting out the standing mixer and soon after covered in fluff. In case you’re wondering, I have gelatin at the ready, for situations such as this one.

Will my guests notice the from scratch difference? Hard to say, although I’m sure that I’ll be pointing it out each time someone takes a bite of something (I’m a great host, I swear).

One last thing, before we get to the recipe—having tasted the homemade marshmallows again, I’ll say this: They’re good. Really, really good..

Worth the effort in fact.

marshmallow1

Marshmallows
David Lebovitz

2 envelopes (17g) powdered gelatin or 17g sheet gelatin (8 to 10 sheets)
1/2 cup (125ml) + 1/3 cup (80ml) cold water
1 cup (200g) sugar
1/3 cup (100g) light corn syrup
4 large egg whites (1/2 cup, 110g), at room temperature
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or 1 teaspoon vanilla paste

Marshmallow Mix
One part corn starch (or potato starch), one part powdered sugar (about 1 cup, 140g, each)

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/2 cup (125ml) of cold water to dissolve and soften. If using leaf gelatin, soak the leaves in about 2 cups (500ml) cold water.

In a small saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, mix the sugar and corn syrup with 1/3 cup (80ml) of water. Place over medium-to-high heat.

(Note that you will use this saucepan twice, to make the syrup and melt the gelatin, eliminating the need to wash it between uses).

In the bowl of an electric mixer, pour in the egg whites and beat on low speed until frothy. Add the pinch of salt.

When the syrup reaches about 210ºF (99ºC), increase the speed of the mixer to high and beat the whites until they are thick and fluffy.

When the syrup reaches 245ºF (118ºC), slowly pour the hot syrup into the whites, pouring so that the syrup does not fall on the whisk since some of the syrup will splatter and stick to the sides of the bowl.

Scrape the gelatin and water into the pan that you used for the syrup, or put the gelatin sheets and 2 tablespoons of the water into the pan and swirl it to dissolve. (There should still be residual heat left in the pan from making the syrup in it to dissolve it).

Pour the liquified gelatin slowly into the whites as they are whipping. Add the vanilla extract or paste and continue to whip for 5 minutes, until the mixture is feels completely cool when you touch the outside of the bowl.

Dust a baking sheet evenly and completely with a generous layer of the marshmallow mixture. A sifter works well for this purpose. Make sure there are absolutely no bare spots.

Use a spatula to spread the marshmallows in a layer on the pan. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, uncovered.

Put about 1 cup (140g) of the marshmallow mixture into a large bowl.

Dust the top of the marshmallows with some of the marshmallow mixture. Use a pizza cutter or scissors (dusted as well with the marshmallow mixture) to cut the marshmallows into any size or shape pieces that you’d like and toss the marshmallows in the marshmallow mixture. Shake the marshmallows vigorously in a wire strainer to remove the excess powder.

Alternatively, you can dust a baking sheet and put scoops of the marshmallow on it, and let them cool.

Makes 25-50 marshmallows, depending on marshmallows, depending on how you decide to cut them

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August 5, 2012 · 11:05 pm

Any idiot*

Right now, the dishwasher needs emptying. My laundry—clean, at least—remains piled, waiting to be put away. There are bills, unpaid. All the quotidian things that fill up one’s day. And, yet, I can’t bring myself to tend to them. I feel like writing.

I’m going to say that again: I feel like writing.

It’s been a long time.

Too long.

What happened was this: first, I was busy just generally being busy. Somewhere along the line, I stopped cooking all that much. I stopped writing before then. After hours spent in front of a computer screen during the day, I couldn’t do it. Couldn’t do much of anything.

Or better stated, any idiot can face a crisis—it’s day to day living that wears you out.*

They say it takes 30 days to establish a habit and almost no time to break it. So, no sooner than a friend—an editor, no less—had complimented my writing, it all but stopped. We don’t talk about these things.

In the same way we don’t talk about how adding just a hint of cinnamon makes chocolate, making it taste like a truer version of itself. Coffee will do the same. If you bake enough, you just know.

So, what happened was this: walking through the Union Square Greenmarket a few weeks ago, the scent of the stone fruit was overwhelming. Luscious, fragrant, the very essence of summer. And, suddenly for the first time in more than a month, I felt like getting out the kitchen scale. A small thing, really. Sort of, anyway. And, as luck would have it, owing to the generosity of a friend who, having heard me talk about wanting to make lavender ice cream had sent me some of the flowers, a recipe was born.

Did you know that adding just a hit of lavender to stone fruit will make the fruit the best version of itself? Truer, more floral.

Well, now you do.

Stone Fruit and Lavender Crostada

For the Pastry:
1 cup flour
3 TBS sugar
1/4 tsp salt
8 TBS butter (1 stick)
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 tsp lavender

For the Filling:
1.5 lbs peaches, plums, apricots
juice of 1 lemon
1 TBS sugar
1 TBS flour

For the pastry:
Sift the flour and salt in a large bowl, adding in the sugar, lavender and lemon zest, stirring to combine. Using a pastry cutter, cut in the butter and the water until the dough is pebbly. Then, turn the dough out onto a well floured surface, rolling it into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour. While the dough is chilling, make your filling and preheat your oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

To assemble the filling:
Cut the peaches, apricots, and plums into wedges and place them in a bowl. Toss with the juice of a lemon, 1 TBS flour, and 1 TBS sugar. Set aside.

Assemble the crostada:
Roll the pastry out into a 10-11″ circle on a lightly floured surface, then transfer it onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Using a fork, piece the dough to allow air to escape. Place the fruit in the center of the dough, allowing for an inch border on all sides. Fold the border of the pastry over the fruit, pleating it to form an edge.

Bake 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.

*with thanks to Chekhov

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July 5, 2012 · 11:04 pm

And, just like that.

I’m back!

mex choc cake

Please forgive my absence. To put it in perspective, it took me two days to finish this article. It’s short, I know. I have no excuse, other than that I got too busy. I’m fully aware of the irony of that statement.

For what it’s worth, it once took me over a month to finish an article from The New Yorker on procrastination.

This will seem all the more appropriate when I tell you that I began to write this post back in February, when I was recapping one of the many dinners that I had hosted.

It was months ago, and, had I gotten around to writing this when I originally planned, I would have regaled you with stories of wandering around midtown Manhattan with some colleagues trying to find a place to buy lottery tickets. It was one of the largest jackpots in New York history, or at least that’s what the news was saying.

Did we think we would win? Probably not, although it should be noted that there’s something to be said to surrendering one’s self to any sort of possibility, however far fetched. Even I got caught up in the frenzy. A first for me—when I was younger, I was always the killjoy at the bodega, opting out of lottery tickets in favor of violets.

I know, I sound like a bit of a killjoy here, too.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve won plenty. The short list includes:

  • Camper of the year (Twice. I’m still flummoxed by that one)

  • several bottles of wine

  • $100 from FreshDirect

  • Another $100 from the Boston Chamber of Commerce

  • a book about women’s lives.

There was an award associated with the last one, although I’m fairly certain that, as with the rest of the cases mentioned above, luck played a great part. Well, luck and having some not so busy moments at various jobs when I could fill out surveys.

Still, winning seems to be missing the point. Ultimately, what it comes down to is that not everything can be a victory. Not every cake can be a celebratory one, with craters of butter cream and fondant (although once it cools down again, I may have a new dinner party project). When it came to the lottery, I didn’t stand a chance.

And, when it comes to cake, lately I prefer this one. It’s a workhorse of a cake, by which I mean that there’s really no occasion for which it’s not suited. It’s versatile enough that you can eat it for breakfast. But, with the right company, and a scoop of just the rice kind of ice cream, it makes any dinner special. Just the thing as my days become more manic. Turns out, I’m not busy so much as overly ambitious. Here’s to hoping I’ll be able to focus some of that ambition to this corner of the internet.

Mexican Spiced Chocolate Cake
Inspired by Smitten Kitchen

1/2 cup (1 stick or 4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (6 7/8 ounces) firmly packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup (4 ounces) granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 cup buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp chipotle powder
1 1/2 cups (6 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup Natural Cocoa Powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter and lightly flour an 8″ round cake pan.

Cream the butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar until smooth and fluffy. Add the egg and beat well. Then, add the buttermilk and vanilla. Sift in the flour, cocoa, cinnamon, chipotle, baking soda, and salt into your creamed sugar mixture. Stir until everything is well incorporated.

Pour batter into your pan, and bake it for approximately 50 minutes. When your cake is fully cooked a tester placed in the center will come out clean. Cook the cake for 10-15 minutes before removing it from the pan.

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April 5, 2012 · 10:20 am

The Apotheosis of Arrogance

I’ll say this: it takes a certain kind of person to see a recipe from a well respected pastry chef and think, I can do that better.

sweet potato ice cream

Probably the same sort of person who goes to a bakery to buy ingredients for the sole purpose of recreating their recipe or goes through the trouble of making homemade marshmallows. (Sorry, folks, there will be no recap for that one. Just a statement: it’s an even sticker process that you think.)

There are names for people like me, none of them flattering.

In my defense, by better I meant better suited for a very specific dinner party I was hosting. In this case, I was looking for something that combined the flavors of Mexico and Japan. No small feat, until I was flipping though The Perfect Scoop. Then, inspiration: Sweet Potato Ice Cream.

While I can’t claim that my version of sweet potato ice cream was better than the original, it certainly did a good job of hitting all the right notes. Plus, it went really well with Mexican Chocolate Cake. I’ll share that recipe soon. I promise.

Naturally by soon, I mean sometime within the next year.

Sweet Potato Ice Cream
Adapted, very generously from The Perfect Scoop

The most notable adaptations I made here were roasting the potatoes, first, to help deepen the flavor, and omitting the pecans. I’m sure they would be lovely, and, in fact, that version might make it onto my Thanksgiving table.

1 pound sweet potatoes
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
2/3 cup light brown sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/8 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp lemon juice
pinch sea salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Piece the sweet potatoes, and roast for 45 minutes, until they are soft. Allow them to cool and then remove the flesh from the skins.

Pour the heavy cream, milk, brown sugar, sweet potatoes, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and salt into a blender, and puree until the mixture is smooth. Add lemon juice to taste. Press the mixture into a strainer to remove any pulp.

Chill the mixture, then freeze it in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Freeze until ready to serve.

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March 23, 2012 · 7:06 am

This is not a test.

Last week, when I celebrated my birthday, it began with a bang.

Actually, that’s not entirely accurate. More like, it began with the sound of rushing water.

Can you tell where I’m going with this? You’re in for a treat, I can assure. More than I can say for myself.

Cue to me stumbling out of bed at 5 am to investigate what sounded like a downpour of epic proportions only to realize that the sound was coming from inside the house. The bathroom, in fact, where I’m fairly certain that the lid of my toilet was perpendicular to the tank. I can’t be sure since, as it was 5 am, and I was half awake, I wasn’t wearing my glasses. Which didn’t stop my from attempting to Macguvyer the thing back into working order. Without turning off the water supply.

I’m often full of good ideas. Often, but not always. And, not at that moment.

If my life was a movie, the next shot would be an extreme close-up of me covered in—thankfully clean—toilet water. With some techno playing in the background, blocking out my swearing.

One thing was certain: I was going to be getting a toilet for my birthday.

A nice compliment to the vacuum that my parents had decided to get me to celebrate growing another year old, and to remind me that I was very much in my thirties. If sounds like I’m making this up. I assure you, I’m not.

Still, it’s hard not to be amused by the whole thing. My first thought after drying myself off and shutting of the water supply was this day can only get better followed quickly by one about how much mileage I could get out of telling the story. I’m eternally in search of the punchline. Sometimes it appears in the most unexpected of places.

And, so, after cleaning up the house, I started my day properly—with cookies and pie (I was born on Pi Day, after all)—because it was my birthday, and I could.

What follows is a recipe for my platonic ideal of a cookie. Do I sound pretentious? It’s been well established that I am.

Besides, I began my birthday covered in toilet water.

I’ve earned this. And, probably some more cookies, too.

Confetti Cookies
Recipe from Momofuku Milk Bar by way of SeriousEats.com

Ingredients:
For the Cookies:
16 tablespoons (225 grams, 2 sticks) butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons (50 grams) glucose or 1 tablespoon (25 grams) corn syrup
2 eggs
2 teaspoons (8 grams) clear vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups (400 grams) flour
2/3 cup (50 grams) milk powder
2 teaspoons (9 grams) cream of tartar
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons (5 grams) kosher salt
1/4 cup (40 grams) rainbow sprinkles
1/2 recipe Birthday Cake Crumb (recipe follows)

For the Birthday Cake Crumb
1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons (25 grams) light brown sugar, lightly packed
3/4 cup (90 grams) cake flour
1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt
2 tablespoons (20 grams) rainbow sprinkles
1/4 cup (40 grams) grapeseed oil
1 tablespoon (12 grams) clear vanilla

To make the Birthday Cake Crumb:
Heat the oven to 300°F.
Combine the sugars, flour, baking powder, salt, and sprinkles in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed until well combined.
Add the oil and vanilla and paddle again to distribute. The wet ingredients will act as glue to help the dry ingredients form small clusters; continue paddling until that happens.
Spread the clusters on a parchment- or Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake for 20 minutes, breaking them up occasionally. The crumbs should still be slightly moist to the touch; they will dry and harden as they cool.
Let the crumbs cool completely before using in a recipe or scarfing by the handful. Stored in an airtight container, the crumbs will keep fresh for 1 week at room temperature or 1 month in the fridge or freezer.

To make the Confetti Cookies:
Combine the butter, sugar, and glucose in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream together on medium-high for 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the eggs and vanilla, and beat for 7 to 8 minutes.
Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the flour, milk powder, cream of tartar, baking soda, salt, and rainbow sprinkles. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than 1 minute. (Do not walk away from the machine during this step, or you will risk overmixing the dough.) Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.
Still on low speed, add the birthday cake crumbs and mix in for 30 seconds?just until they are incorporated.
Using a 2 3/4-ounce ice cream scoop (or a 1/3-cup measure), portion out the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Pat the tops of the cookie dough domes flat. Wrap the sheet pan tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 1 week. Do not bake your cookies from room temperature?they will not bake properly.
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Arrange the chilled dough a minimum of 4 inches apart on parchment- or Silpat-lined sheet pans. Bake for 18 minutes. The cookies will puff, crackle, and spread. After 18 minutes, they should be very lightly browned on the edges (golden brown on the bottom). The centers will show just the beginning signs of color. Leave the cookies in the oven for an additional minute or so if the colors don?t match and the cookies still seem pale and doughy on the surface.
Cool the cookies completely on the sheet pans before transferring to a plate or an airtight container for storage. At room temp, the cookies will keep fresh for 5 days; in the freezer, they will keep for 1 month.

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